Table of contents:
Summary
In the summer of 2021, the author embarked on a weekend getaway to Japan's Shiga and Fukui prefectures to escape the heat of Tokyo. Shiga, located in the heart of Honshu, is renowned for its Omi Beef, picturesque national parks, and ski resorts, but the trip focused on exploring Lake Biwa, Japan’s largest lake, and Hikone Castle. Starting at Lake Biwa, the author highlights the importance of renting a car to fully appreciate the scenic beauty along the less touristy routes and recommends timing visits for sunset photography. The opportunity to take a cruise around the lake was limited during the pandemic, affecting the exploration of local islands. The following day included a visit to Hikone Castle, easily accessible by car or train, with reasonably priced entrance fees for those wishing to see the castle and its gardens. Rich in history, Hikone Castle was constructed in the early Edo period and stands as a prominent landmark overlooking the lake. Overall, the trip provided insights into natural beauty and historical significance, appealing to nature lovers and urban explorers alike.To escape the summer heat in Tokyo a little, I went on a short weekend trip – or a drive, as such a short trip is called here in Japan – and visited the prefectures of Shiga and Fukui.
Shiga Prefecture
Shiga Prefecture is located in the center of Japan’s main island, Honshu, and is about a five and a half hour drive west of Tokyo. You may have heard of "Omi Beef" or "Wagyu Beef" – Shiga is the home of this delicacy. The region is also known for its large number of national parks and ski resorts in winter. Since I visited Shiga in summer, I wanted to take a closer look at the famous Biwa Lake and the equally well-known Hikone Castle and take you along for the journey.
At Lake Biwa
The first stop of my trip was Lake Biwa, Japan’s largest lake. It’s even said to be the fourth oldest lake in the world. Probably the most famous image is the large torii gate in the middle of the water, which appears on many Japanese postcards. I didn’t visit that particular spot but instead explored the other side of the lake to take a closer look at some of the less touristy spots.
A car is worth it!
To truly enjoy Lake Biwa, I can only recommend renting a car. The route I took along the lake didn’t offer much in terms of tourist spots, but being able to simply enjoy the scenery while driving more than made up for that. I would especially recommend the evening hours around sunset for anyone who enjoys landscape photography.
There’s an option to take a cruise ship across Lake Biwa that also makes a stop at the small island of Chikubu-shima. However, during the pandemic, these ships only run on certain days and unfortunately I wasn’t lucky, so I missed out on further exploring the lake.
My impression
All in all, Lake Biwa is worth a visit, but you should know in advance what interests you personally: If you want to enjoy Japan’s nature to the fullest, a road trip around the lake is perfect, as there are plenty of beautiful spots for landscape photos and you’ll pass a few temples along the way. It’s also certainly a great area for hiking.
For city dwellers and those who would like to eat with a view of the lake, it’s probably best to center your trip more around the local towns.
Hikone Castle
The next day I visited Hikone Castle, which – as its name suggests – is located in the city of Hikone, right on Lake Biwa. It’s very easy to reach by car, but you should be prepared for rather high parking fees: 1,000 yen per hour.
However, the castle is also easy to reach by train: it’s only about a 15-minute walk from Hikone Station.
Admission
If you want a closer look at the castle, you have two options: admission with a small tour of the interior, the surrounding garden, and the Hikone Castle Museum costs 1500 yen (approx. 8 euros). Admission without access to the Museum costs 1000 yen (approx. 6 euros). There is also the option of admission only for the surrounding garden, which costs 400 yen (approx. 2 euros).
This time, I opted just for a tour of the castle and gardens, and skipped the museum.
Historical background
Hikone Castle was built, starting in 1603 during the Edo period, by order of Ii Naokatsu, the son of the first lord of Hikone, and was completed in 1622. It is one of the 12 Japanese castles that have preserved their original keep to this day and was even designated a Japanese National Treasure in 1952.
The castle is especially popular in the spring, as it’s surrounded by plum trees and the blossom season must be particularly picturesque. But even in summer, the castle makes quite an impression and, despite its small size, still appears rather imposing.
Inside the castle
With your admission ticket, you can also view the rooms inside the castle. If you’ve ever visited a castle in Germany, you probably know that the interior furnishings and weapon collections are often part of the exhibition. Don’t expect that here: the entire interior of the castle is empty. In my opinion, it’s still worthwhile to see the inside, as the architecture is completely different from what we know in European castles. For one, walls and floors are made entirely of wood, and there are hardly any separate rooms.
My highlight was the view from the castle’s platform. You don’t just see the city of Hikone in front of you, but also a large portion of Lake Biwa. According to the tourist guides I checked beforehand, this platform is one of the eight best spots to see the lake – and I can only agree.
My conclusion
In summary, Hikone Castle is small but very beautiful. You don’t need to plan a whole day for a visit, but if you’re in the area I definitely recommend putting the castle on your itinerary.
There are no restaurants right next to the castle, so it’s a good idea to head into town after your visit and look for a local eatery.
But watch out: Outside of the big cities, many restaurants and shops already close around seven in the evening!
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