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Phnom Penh Travel Report

Between Tradition and Modernity: My Journey through Phnom Penh

Written and analysed by Ryusei Hosono • • Updated: December 9, 2024
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A four-photo collage capturing different sides of Phnom Penh, Cambodia. The leftmost panel is a rainy night street lined with bars and restaurants, their neon signs in green, yellow, and pink reflecting off the wet asphalt. Motorbikes are parked along the curb beneath big trees, and a Cambodian flag hangs from one building. Next to it, a temple glows at dusk: dark tiered roofs stacked against a deep blue evening sky, with an ornately carved entrance porch lit in warm gold, a hanging chandelier, and a small golden Buddha statue below. The third panel shows a market stall crammed with souvenirs, thick strands of brown and gold bead necklaces hanging from the ceiling above trays and baskets full of colorful bracelets and bangles. The last panel features a green Grab tuk-tuk parked on a tree-shaded street, its windshield speckled with rain and a small umbrella mounted on top.

A four-photo collage capturing different sides of Phnom Penh, Cambodia.

The leftmost panel is a rainy night street lined with bars and restaurants, their neon signs in green, yellow, and pink reflecting off the wet asphalt. Motorbikes are parked along the curb beneath big trees, and a Cambodian flag hangs from one building. Next to it, a temple glows at dusk: dark tiered roofs stacked against a deep blue evening sky, with an ornately carved entrance porch lit in warm gold, a hanging chandelier, and a small golden Buddha statue below. The third panel shows a market stall crammed with souvenirs, thick strands of brown and gold bead necklaces hanging from the ceiling above trays and baskets full of colorful bracelets and bangles. The last panel features a green Grab tuk-tuk parked on a tree-shaded street, its windshield speckled with rain and a small umbrella mounted on top.


Visible text in the image

Grab

Phnom Penh Travel Report Photo: Ryusei Hosono / RyuKoch

Table of contents:

    TL;DR

    Phnom Penh, the vibrant capital of Cambodia, captivates visitors with its blend of tradition and modernity. The city buzzes with life, from bustling markets to historical landmarks and trendy cafés, providing a unique experience steeped in both the past and present. The author's initial arrival reveals a chaotic yet welcoming atmosphere, characterized by a mix of vehicles and the warm hospitality of the locals. Navigating the city presents challenges, particularly in its hectic traffic, with options like TukTuks and the Grab taxi service, which offers convenience but raises concerns about safety. For accommodation, the author chose the Okay Boutique Hotel near the Royal Palace, appreciated for its beautiful exterior and stunning views, although it had issues with bathroom odors. Overall, this travelogue showcases the rich experiences and contrasts of Phnom Penh, inviting readers to explore the city’s charm and complexity.

    Phnom Penh, the vibrant capital of Cambodia, is a city full of contrasts. From lively markets and historic sites to modern cafés, the city offers a blend of past and present that fascinates every visitor. In this blog post, I’d like to take you along on my journey through this fascinating city and share my impressions and experiences.

    Phnom Penh sunset

    A rooftop view over Phnom Penh at sunset. In the foreground, low houses and shophouses crowd together with corrugated metal roofs in rust red, blue, and grey, and a temple complex with tiered orange roofs and a small golden stupa sits among the trees. Behind them the skyline rises: a grand pale stone building with warm lit windows, glass high-rises, and several towers still under construction with cranes on top, one tall concrete skeleton dominating the center. The sky glows orange and pink near the horizon under heavy grey clouds, and a few green leaves hang into the top of the frame.

    A rooftop view over Phnom Penh at sunset. In the foreground, low houses and shophouses crowd together with corrugated metal roofs in rust red, blue, and grey, and a temple complex with tiered orange roofs and a small golden stupa sits among the trees. Behind them the skyline rises: a grand pale stone building with warm lit windows, glass high-rises, and several towers still under construction with cranes on top, one tall concrete skeleton dominating the center. The sky glows orange and pink near the horizon under heavy grey clouds, and a few green leaves hang into the top of the frame.


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    Phnom Penh sunset

    First Impressions of Phnom Penh

    When I arrived in Phnom Penh, I was immediately overwhelmed by the energy and chaos of the city. The streets were full of cars, tuk-tuks, and motorcycles weaving through traffic, seemingly without rules. You constantly hear the honking of vehicles and the chatter of people. But despite this initial chaotic impression, I instantly felt the warmth and hospitality of the Cambodian people.

    Streets of Phnom Penh

    A busy night market street in Phnom Penh, photographed just after rain. The asphalt is soaked and mirrors the glow of the stalls, scooter headlights, and a backlit sign in Khmer script marking Kandal Market on the left. The street is lined with open-air food stalls strung with bright bulbs, sheltered by colorful tarps, tents, and a large orange umbrella. Vendors work behind counters stacked with fruit and drinks while customers sit on plastic chairs or stand eating. Motorbikes are everywhere: two riders blur past in the foreground, others are parked between the stalls, and a man pauses beside his bike to check his phone. A big blue tarp covers part of the market structure above, and dark apartment buildings fade into the night sky behind it. The whole scene feels humid, lively, and very much lived-in.

    A busy night market street in Phnom Penh, photographed just after rain. The asphalt is soaked and mirrors the glow of the stalls, scooter headlights, and a backlit sign in Khmer script marking Kandal Market on the left.

    The street is lined with open-air food stalls strung with bright bulbs, sheltered by colorful tarps, tents, and a large orange umbrella. Vendors work behind counters stacked with fruit and drinks while customers sit on plastic chairs or stand eating. Motorbikes are everywhere: two riders blur past in the foreground, others are parked between the stalls, and a man pauses beside his bike to check his phone. A big blue tarp covers part of the market structure above, and dark apartment buildings fade into the night sky behind it. The whole scene feels humid, lively, and very much lived-in.


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    KHTOM MARKET

    Streets of Phnom Penh

    Getting Around in Phnom Penh

    Traffic and Transportation

    The traffic in Phnom Penh is, to say the least, chaotic. It’s not uncommon for red lights to be ignored and drivers to make their own way through the crowd. Still, there are some well-paved roads in the city center, while the streets outside of downtown are often full of potholes. It gets especially bumpy in a tuk-tuk or auto rickshaw, which are very common and inexpensive means of transportation here.

    Traffic in Phnom Penh

    Two photos sit side by side. On the left, the view from the back seat of a tuk-tuk in Phnom Penh: the driver, seen from behind in a beige cap and a patterned purple shirt, steers down the street while the side mirrors catch the passenger raising a phone to take the picture. A bottle of Angkor beer hangs from the frame under the open-weave canopy. On the right, the same city from street level: a wide road under a deep blue sky with scattered clouds, a dark SUV and motorbikes moving past low buildings with red tile roofs. A palm tree rises over the block, and a small food stall shaded by a red umbrella sits on the sidewalk beside a menu board with Khmer writing.

    Two photos sit side by side. On the left, the view from the back seat of a tuk-tuk in Phnom Penh: the driver, seen from behind in a beige cap and a patterned purple shirt, steers down the street while the side mirrors catch the passenger raising a phone to take the picture. A bottle of Angkor beer hangs from the frame under the open-weave canopy.

    On the right, the same city from street level: a wide road under a deep blue sky with scattered clouds, a dark SUV and motorbikes moving past low buildings with red tile roofs. A palm tree rises over the block, and a small food stall shaded by a red umbrella sits on the sidewalk beside a menu board with Khmer writing.


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    Traffic in Phnom Penh

    Grab as an Alternative

    Another popular means of transportation is Grab, a taxi service that offers auto rickshaws and tuk-tuks in Phnom Penh much more frequently than, for example, in Vietnam or Thailand. Grab offers several advantages in Phnom Penh: you see the price before the ride and can conveniently pay by credit card via the app, which eliminates the need for tedious price negotiations. However, a downside is that the vehicles often lack safety features. Many cars don’t have working seatbelts in the back, which is concerning given the high accident rates on the roads. Still, Grab is a practical option for travelers who value comfort and transparency.

    Grab car

    A white SUV marked with the green Grab logo sits on a rain-soaked boulevard in Phnom Penh, caught in a heavy downpour. Streaks of rain fall across the frame and the dark asphalt mirrors the car, its door handles, and the green branding on its side. A large green and white chevron graphic runs along the rear door, and a driver is faintly visible behind the wet windshield. Behind the car, leafy trees line the street, with pale colonial-style buildings and the glass facade of a high-rise under construction rising in the distance.

    A white SUV marked with the green Grab logo sits on a rain-soaked boulevard in Phnom Penh, caught in a heavy downpour. Streaks of rain fall across the frame and the dark asphalt mirrors the car, its door handles, and the green branding on its side. A large green and white chevron graphic runs along the rear door, and a driver is faintly visible behind the wet windshield. Behind the car, leafy trees line the street, with pale colonial-style buildings and the glass facade of a high-rise under construction rising in the distance.


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    Grab

    Grab car

    Accommodation: The Okay Boutique Hotel

    For my stay, I chose the Okay Boutique Hotel, which is located near the Royal Palace. From the outside, the hotel is very beautiful, and the view from my room was simply breathtaking. The only drawback was the bathroom, which had an unpleasant odor. Still, the proximity to many sights was a big plus.

    Here on Google Maps  

    Okay Boutique Hotel Booking Link Book your stay at Okay Boutique Hotel on Booking.com

    Affiliate link: If you book a hotel at Booking.com through my widget or my link, I receive a small commission. No additional cost for you and you support my blog. I’m very grateful and wish you a great time traveling (^_^)

    The Okay Boutique Hotel

    A three-photo collage from a stay at a boutique hotel in Phnom Penh. The largest photo, on the right, shows the lobby: a massive stone statue of the elephant-headed god Ganesha sits cross-legged at the center, wearing a flower garland and framed by a golden ornament behind its head. It stands under an intricately carved dark wood ceiling hung with glowing golden lanterns and chandeliers. Potted plants, woven baskets, and small offering dishes with cash sit around the statue's base, and a guest waits at the wooden reception counter in the background. The two smaller photos on the left show the room itself. The top one is the bathroom, dominated by a deep square soaking tub made of speckled dark granite, with a shower head on the tiled wall, a marble-look vanity with a round sink, and small bottles of toiletries on the counter. The bottom one shows the bedroom: a wide bed with white linens, a gold-patterned runner, rolled towels, and a folded Thai-style pillow arrangement. Dark wooden furniture, a desk with a TV above it, a wall-mounted air conditioner, and heavy gold curtains complete the space, with a backpack and orange jacket resting on a chair by the door.

    A three-photo collage from a stay at a boutique hotel in Phnom Penh. The largest photo, on the right, shows the lobby: a massive stone statue of the elephant-headed god Ganesha sits cross-legged at the center, wearing a flower garland and framed by a golden ornament behind its head. It stands under an intricately carved dark wood ceiling hung with glowing golden lanterns and chandeliers. Potted plants, woven baskets, and small offering dishes with cash sit around the statue's base, and a guest waits at the wooden reception counter in the background.

    The two smaller photos on the left show the room itself. The top one is the bathroom, dominated by a deep square soaking tub made of speckled dark granite, with a shower head on the tiled wall, a marble-look vanity with a round sink, and small bottles of toiletries on the counter. The bottom one shows the bedroom: a wide bed with white linens, a gold-patterned runner, rolled towels, and a folded Thai-style pillow arrangement. Dark wooden furniture, a desk with a TV above it, a wall-mounted air conditioner, and heavy gold curtains complete the space, with a backpack and orange jacket resting on a chair by the door.


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    12

    The Okay Boutique Hotel

    Culinary Experiences in Phnom Penh

    Local Specialties

    Cambodian cuisine really surprised me in a positive way. Unlike in Thailand , where the food is often very spicy, dishes in Cambodia are rather mildly seasoned. My favorites included Bor Bor, a chicken rice soup, as well as Fish Amok, a mild fish curry. I was also especially impressed by the range of Korean and Indian influences you’ll find in many restaurants and shops.

    Local specialties

    A three-photo collage of street food in Phnom Penh at night. The top left photo shows a market stall where a woman in a red shirt stands behind trays piled with grilled skewers, fresh lettuce and cabbage, banana leaf parcels, and bowls of fresh fish, with a large tray of raw shrimp on ice in front. Below it, a close-up of a bowl of rice porridge topped with shredded chicken, fresh herbs, and crispy garlic in a light broth. The right photo shows a lit food cart on a dark, wet street, its glass case filled with glistening roasted chickens and ducks hanging from hooks, with a motorbike rider passing in front.

    A three-photo collage of street food in Phnom Penh at night. The top left photo shows a market stall where a woman in a red shirt stands behind trays piled with grilled skewers, fresh lettuce and cabbage, banana leaf parcels, and bowls of fresh fish, with a large tray of raw shrimp on ice in front. Below it, a close-up of a bowl of rice porridge topped with shredded chicken, fresh herbs, and crispy garlic in a light broth. The right photo shows a lit food cart on a dark, wet street, its glass case filled with glistening roasted chickens and ducks hanging from hooks, with a motorbike rider passing in front.


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    GIVENCHY

    Local specialties

    The Night Market

    An absolute must for every visitor is the Night Market in Phnom Penh. Here you can try a wide variety of local dishes at affordable prices. From Bor Bor to fermented noodles, there's something for every taste. In addition to the culinary offerings, there are plenty of stalls selling clothes and bags, though you’ll often run into fake products here.

    Night Market

    A rain-slicked street in Phnom Penh glows at night under neon and LED signs on both sides. A yellow tuk-tuk drives away from the camera in the middle of the road, its red taillights reflected in the wet asphalt, while several parked tuk-tuks and motorbikes line the left curb. On the right, a street vendor sits behind a food cart stacked with fruit, drink jars, and plastic bags under a striped red and yellow canopy. The shophouses rising above the street carry lit signs in Khmer and English, including ones for Hostel, Angkor, and Tiger beer, and a few pedestrians and motorbikes move through the glow deeper in the scene. The mix of neon signage, street food, and tuk-tuk traffic gives the frame the feel of a busy nightlife and market district after rain.

    A rain-slicked street in Phnom Penh glows at night under neon and LED signs on both sides. A yellow tuk-tuk drives away from the camera in the middle of the road, its red taillights reflected in the wet asphalt, while several parked tuk-tuks and motorbikes line the left curb. On the right, a street vendor sits behind a food cart stacked with fruit, drink jars, and plastic bags under a striped red and yellow canopy. The shophouses rising above the street carry lit signs in Khmer and English, including ones for Hostel, Angkor, and Tiger beer, and a few pedestrians and motorbikes move through the glow deeper in the scene. The mix of neon signage, street food, and tuk-tuk traffic gives the frame the feel of a busy nightlife and market district after rain.


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    Sora's
    Sora's
    TOKYO
    TIGER
    EXPRESS
    Tiger โมจิ
    NEW YORK

    Night Market

    Confronting the Past

    The Genocide Museum

    A visit to the Genocide Museum is, in my opinion, a must. It is a place of remembrance of the horrific events of the Khmer Rouge, during which between 1 and 3 million people were killed or died from hunger and disease. The museum offers deep insight into this dark period of Cambodian history and also explains why the population today is so young.

    The Genocide Museum

    A three-photo collage from the Choeung Ek Killing Fields memorial near Phnom Penh, documenting the Cambodian genocide. In the top left, a sunken mass grave sits inside a simple wooden fence under an open shelter, marked by a rough wooden sign that reads "MASS GRAVE OF 450 VICTIMS" in English and Khmer. The surrounding ground is bare earth ringed by green trees. The bottom left photo shows glass display cases on metal stands filled with human bones and bone fragments recovered from the site. The right side is a tall view inside the memorial stupa, where tiered glass shelves stacked row upon row hold hundreds of human skulls, many marked with colored dots used to classify victims by age and method of death.

    A three-photo collage from the Choeung Ek Killing Fields memorial near Phnom Penh, documenting the Cambodian genocide.

    In the top left, a sunken mass grave sits inside a simple wooden fence under an open shelter, marked by a rough wooden sign that reads "MASS GRAVE OF 450 VICTIMS" in English and Khmer. The surrounding ground is bare earth ringed by green trees. The bottom left photo shows glass display cases on metal stands filled with human bones and bone fragments recovered from the site. The right side is a tall view inside the memorial stupa, where tiered glass shelves stacked row upon row hold hundreds of human skulls, many marked with colored dots used to classify victims by age and method of death.


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    6

    MASS GRAVE
    OF
    450 VICTIMS

    The Genocide Museum

    Practical Travel Tips for Phnom Penh

    Payment Methods and Currency

    In Phnom Penh, both US dollars and Cambodian riel are accepted. It's convenient to always carry some cash in both currencies, as cards are not accepted everywhere.

    Health and Safety

    An important tip for all travelers: don’t brush your teeth with tap water and definitely don’t drink it. The water may contain microbes that can be harmful to your health. When it comes to road safety, be especially careful, as traffic is often chaotic, although people drive on the right, as in Germany.

    Conclusion: My Impressions of Phnom Penh

    Phnom Penh is a city full of contrasts that deeply impressed me. The mix of tradition and modernity, the friendly people, and many culinary highlights make the city an unforgettable travel destination. Despite minor inconveniences, like the chaotic traffic and the occasional unpleasant smell in the hotel bathroom, I would come back any time.

    Impressions of Phnom Penh

    A three-part photo collage from Phnom Penh. On the left, a covered flower market bursts with color: buckets and baskets of orchids, lilies, roses, and marigolds arranged on plastic stools under warm string lights, with signs in Khmer script overhead. Below it, a calm green river or lake edged by dense vegetation and a bare, twisting tree branch reaching over the water. The right side, filling half the frame, shows the interior of a Buddhist shrine: an intricately carved, tiered bronze stupa glowing under spotlights, its walls and ceiling covered in vividly painted murals, with seated Buddha statues gathered in front, one wearing an orange robe.

    A three-part photo collage from Phnom Penh. On the left, a covered flower market bursts with color: buckets and baskets of orchids, lilies, roses, and marigolds arranged on plastic stools under warm string lights, with signs in Khmer script overhead. Below it, a calm green river or lake edged by dense vegetation and a bare, twisting tree branch reaching over the water. The right side, filling half the frame, shows the interior of a Buddhist shrine: an intricately carved, tiered bronze stupa glowing under spotlights, its walls and ceiling covered in vividly painted murals, with seated Buddha statues gathered in front, one wearing an orange robe.


    Visible text in the image

    ផ្សារ ចំការជើង

    Impressions of Phnom Penh

    Do you have any questions about my trip or need more tips for your own visit to Phnom Penh? Let me know in the comments!

    Thanks for reading and see you next time!

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