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Nikko / Nikkō or in Japanese (jap. 日光市) is a famous city in Japan. It is located in Tochigi Prefecture and is accessible by train from Tokyo in about 2 hours.
For most tourists, the Nikkō Tōshō-gū Temple (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) is the first stop, with the three monkeys who see, hear, and speak no evil. But Nikko has much more to offer. Especially many historical buildings, as well as a lot of nature and fresh air - something you don't always get in Tokyo.
I visited Nikko in both 2022 and 2023 and in this post I'll show you everything I experienced on both trips.
From Tokyo to Nikko
By car
If you want to drive to Nikko, you should be aware that the journey takes about 2 hours, depending on traffic it can take longer. There are toll booths along the way, which you can find information about in advance to budget for the costs.
By train
For the "Limited Express" you need in addition to the IC card (e.g. Passmo or Suica) a Limited Express Ticket! However, only the IC card needs to be scanned.
In my opinion, the easiest way to get from Tokyo to Nikko is by train. You only need one train connection and therefore don't have to change trains, which is really very pleasant. This regional train runs from Asakusa (Tokyo) to Nikko (Tobu Skytree Line), which takes about 2 hours.
Means of transport on site in Nikko
In Nikko, besides the car, you can also take the bus. On our trip in 2022, we bought a ticket for 2,200 yen, which took us to Lake Chūzenji and back. This ticket is valid for all stations on the entire route between Nikko Station and the lake.
On our last trip in 2023, we bought an extended ticket for 3,500 yen, which even took us to Yumoto Onsen. The special ticket offers good value for money, as a single trip would normally cost 1,950 yen. It's also practical because you don't need a separate IC card. The ticket is valid for 2 days, so you should consider when to buy it. Note that it is valid from the date of purchase, so it's best to buy it on the first day of your trip. We bought it right in the morning in Nikko, after we had already spent the night there.
Sights in Nikko
There are many sights in and around Nikko, which are really highly recommended! We have already visited some of them in 2022 and also on our last trip in 2023.
Shinkyo Bridge
In general, you can say that the area around Nikko is very well accessible by public transport. You can therefore easily reach all the sights in the area by bus.
One of the most famous landmarks in Nikko is the Shinkyo Bridge - a red arch bridge that offers a beautiful view and is located at the entrance to the Nikkō Tōshō-gū Temple. This place is therefore the perfect starting point for the first sight. If you like, you can also pay a little money to walk onto the bridge and take a photo (or have one taken).
Google Maps: https://goo.gl/maps/ZFtXYWTJJGwvDnVj8
Nikko Toshogu Shrine
Nikko is known for its impressive shrines and temples. On our visit, we visited the Toshogu Shrine, which is known for its magnificent architecture and the famous three monkeys who see, hear, and speak no evil. By the way, you definitely know these monkeys from your smartphone keyboard. Those are the three monkey emojis that are used very often.
When we were there in 2022, we arrived on January 2nd, so it was extremely crowded, as the Japanese traditionally go to shrines on New Year's Day. Corona was still raging at the time, so we didn't want to be in the crowds and unfortunately couldn't see the monkeys at the time. We made up for that on our trip in 2023!
To visit the various shrines and temples cost-effectively, you can buy two tickets: a combo ticket for 900 yen per person and another ticket for 1,300 yen. These tickets give you entry to various sights, including the famous Toshogu Shrine.
Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/2rp42L7obG7VkX84A
Tamozawa Imperial Villa Memorial Park
One of the largest wooden buildings stands here in the "Tamozawa Imperial Villa Memorial Park". Unfortunately, it was already closed when we got there. This is located between the "Temple Nikkō Tōshō-gū" and the Abyss.
Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/fCEhqVSFT5BzwoBZ7
Kanmangafuchi Abyss
If you want to end the day after the impressive temple with a walk, I recommend the Jizo Statues at the Kanmangafuchi Abyss. The statues have these distinctive red hats and cloth bibs. It is said that you can't count them, as you get a different number every time.
Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/nyXQ5mcbT7f8vE4R8
Lake Chūzenji
Lake Chūzenji is very famous in the Nikko region, but beware: in winter it is extremely cold and windy there, as it is located on a mountain (about 1,200 meters above sea level). It also snows often, or rather, the snow stays longer and it is much colder than at the station (about 500 meters above sea level).
After admiring the lake and envying the hotel guests from The Ritz-Carlton (about 1,000€ per night), we went to a cafe with a view of the lake. This was important because the wind was making it difficult for us despite 4 layers, gloves and a scarf. At this time of year you can't go paddle boating, so I'm curious to see what it's like in the summer.
We were back here on our trip in 2023 and to our surprise we even saw wild monkeys this time! While they live in Japan, they are rather rare to see in the wild. It was definitely a unique experience that I will not forget.
Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/evWiAVvwqkDd1mLDA
The Kengon Falls
Nikko and its surroundings are known for the 3 waterfalls. We were able to see two of them. It is especially spectacular in winter, as the water freezes on and under the waterfall. At 97 meters high, it is also the highest and most impressive.
Besides the Nachi and Fukuroda Falls in other prefectures, the Kengon Falls are considered among the most beautiful in Japan.
If you want to see the waterfall from a good perspective, you can take an elevator, there is no staircase. Unfortunately, this costs about 600 yen. But you also pay for the staff and the platform.
Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/vDZMF7xcDBKd7aY28
If you like fish, you should definitely try fish on a skewer. They are usually trout that you can eat with bones and guts. They are salty and super savory. Especially in the cold season, a small meal in between can warm the stomach. Because they are grilled with charcoal, they are also super crispy. As I write this, I'm craving it again, hahaha.
The Ryūzu Falls
The much smaller Ryūzu Falls are a little further away. You can see these especially well up close. If you get hungry, there is also a restaurant there - of course with the local specialty Yuba.
Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/pnsSFsc8kP4AX5t87
Edo Wonderland Nikko Edomura
Edo Wonderland is an open-air museum where you can immerse yourself in the world of the Edo period. Here you will find contemporary buildings with furnishings and other interesting objects from this period. The entrance fee of 5,800 yen (about 37 euros) per person is quite expensive, but you can certainly spend 2-3 hours here. Even more with children!
My tip: If you buy the ticket at Nikko Tobu Station, the ticket costs "only" 5,500 yen and saves you some money. There is also a free shuttle bus that takes you from Nikko JR Station to Edo Wonderland (attention: this is not Tobu Nikko Station, where the Limited Express train arrives!).
Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/Y2wb12kipxUrKcb36
Official Website (English): https://edowonderland.net/en/
Since we were hungry exploring the open-air museum, we decided to eat at the restaurant in the open-air museum. Here there was Edo Miso Dipping Soba - with 1,000 yen per dish, in my opinion, however, relatively expensive for just some soba with wasabi and spring onions.
Yumoto Onsen Spring
Another sight we visited is the Yumoto Onsen Spring. The natural hot springs bubble up here in a beautiful landscape between forests and mountains. The remaining snow made the whole thing even more special. The sulfurous smell (smells like rotten eggs) of the water is very strong, however! The entrance here is free.
As the Yumoto Onsen Spring is very rural, you may also be lucky enough to see wild animals such as monkeys or deer. We spotted a deer in the bushes on our visit!
Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/t8F1qUZCv8NkYff89
The foot bath あんよの湯 (anyo no yu)
Near the Yumoto Onsen Spring there is also a foot bath (あんよの湯 anyo no yu) that you can visit. The entrance to the foot bath is usually free, but it was already closed at 4:00 PM when we were there, so we couldn't try it out.
Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/Yv9ELj45z2Ey4qvm8
Hotels in Nikko
Nikko Park Lodge Tobu Station (Trip 2022)
On our 2022 trip, we opted for a budget hotel because we wanted to invest the saved money in food, above all. The hotel is called "Nikko Park Lodge Tobu Station" .* If you want to spend 200-300€ on a hotel, you naturally have a much better and larger selection. But that also depends on the season.
Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/SK2xoYkAhspGuHgb6
*Booking.com: "Nikko Park Lodge Tobu Station"
Positive features:
- 2 minutes from the main station
- Staff (on our arrival they could speak very good English)
- Very cheap (~8.000¥ / 60€)
- Bookable via Booking.com or Airbnb (Booking.com was cheaper when we booked)
- No mold found
- Microwave & fridge in the shared bathroom (supermarket is 2 minutes away - Family Market Kombini is 5 minutes away)
Negative features:
- The walls are very thin (a child screamed for about half an hour at 7:30 AM)
- The smell is sometimes unpleasant, but the room was okay
- Shared toilets & bathroom (two rooms shared these with us)
- The carpet in the room is very stained, and the furniture is also dirty in places
- The bed sheets had a small hole (2 cm), but were otherwise clean for a two-star hotel
- No extras (just a two-star hotel)
Shinkyo Inn Hotel (Trip 2023)
On our 2023 trip, we opted for the "Shinkyo Inn "* hotel. This hotel has an ideal location, just one minute from the famous Shinkyo Bridge. There are many restaurants in the area and the main attractions such as shrines and temples are just a 2-3 minute walk away.
A special highlight of the hotel is that you have an idyllic view of the nearby river from both the bathroom and the rest of the room. The owner of the hotel is a foreigner (I think he was British) and therefore speaks perfect English. This means there are naturally no language barriers at all, which makes it highly recommendable for foreign guests as well.
We were allowed to leave our luggage at the hotel until 2:00 PM. Since the owners were out themselves that day, we couldn't leave the suitcases there any longer. The hotel is more of a guesthouse and only has two rooms in total, but both accommodations are very spacious.
Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/4X39RfLKhJZswZoY6
*Booking.com: "Shinkyo Inn"
*Affiliate Link
Positive features:
- Perfect location, just a short walk from the famous sights
- The owner could speak perfect English (he was British himself)
- There are many restaurants near the accommodation
- Has a total of two rooms, therefore very spacious
- View of the river, very idyllic
Negative features:
- We could only leave our luggage until 2:00 PM on the day of departure
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