Nikko (Nikkō City) Trip - Travel Guide 1–2 days in nature

Nikko / Nikkō or in Japanese (jap. 日光市) is a famous city in Japan. It is located in Tochigi-Ken Prefecture and can be reached by train from Tokyo in about 2 hours.

For most tourists, the Nikkō Tōshō-gū Temple (recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site) is the first stop, known for the Three Wise Monkeys that see no (evil), hear no, and speak no evil. But Nikko has so much more to offer. There are especially many historical buildings, as well as plenty of nature and fresh air—something you sometimes can't experience in Tokyo.

I visited Nikko both in 2022 and in 2023 and in this article I’ll show you everything I experienced on both trips.

From Tokyo to Nikko

By car

If you want to drive to Nikko by car, be aware that the journey takes about 2 hours (could be longer depending on traffic). There are toll stations on the route, so check them in advance to budget for the costs.

By train

For the "Limited Express" in addition to the IC card (e.g. Passmo or Suica) you need a Limited Express Ticket! But only the IC card needs to be scanned.

In my opinion, the easiest way to get from Tokyo to Nikko is by train. You only need one connection and don’t have to change trains, which is really pleasant. This local train runs from Asakusa (Tokyo) to Nikko (Tobu Skytree Line), which takes about 2 hours.

Getting around in Nikko

In Nikko, besides driving, you can also take the bus. On our 2022 trip we bought a ticket for 2,200 yen, which brought us to Chuzenji Lake and back. This ticket is valid for all stops on the entire route between Nikko station and the lake.

On our most recent 2023 trip we bought an extended ticket for 3,500 yen, which even took us to Yumoto Onsen. The special ticket offers great value for money, as a one-way fare would normally cost 1,950 yen. It’s also handy, since you don’t need a separate IC card. The ticket is valid for 2 days, so you should consider when to purchase it. Note that it’s valid from the date of purchase, so it’s best to buy it on the first day of your trip. We bought it directly on the first morning in Nikko after spending the night there.

Sights in Nikko

There are plenty of sights in and around Nikko that are truly recommended! We already visited some of them in 2022 and again on our last trip in 2023.

Shinkyo Bridge

In general, the area around Nikko is very accessible by public transport. So you can easily reach all local sightseeing spots by bus.

One of Nikko’s most famous landmarks is the Shinkyo Bridge—a red arched bridge that provides a beautiful view and is located at the entrance of the Nikkō Tōshō-gū Temple. That makes this the perfect spot for your first sightseeing stop. If you want, you can also pay a small fee to walk on the bridge and get a photo (taken of you).

Google Maps: https://goo.gl/maps/ZFtXYWTJJGwvDnVj8

Nikko Toshogu Shrine

Nikko is famous for its impressive shrines and temples. During our visit, we explored the Toshogu Shrine, which is well known for its magnificent architecture and the three monkeys who see no, hear no, and speak no evil. By the way, you definitely know these monkeys from your smartphone keyboard—they’re the Three Wise Monkey emojis that get used a lot!

When we were there in 2022, we visited on January 2nd, which meant it was extremely crowded as Japanese people traditionally visit shrines for New Year. Back then, COVID was still widespread, so we didn’t want to stay in the crowds and unfortunately didn’t get to see the monkeys at that time. We caught up on it during our 2023 trip!

To visit the various shrines and temples affordably, you can buy two tickets: a combo ticket for 900 yen per person and another ticket for 1,300 yen. These tickets give you entry to several attractions—including the famous Toshogu Shrine.

Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/2rp42L7obG7VkX84A

Tamozawa Imperial Villa Memorial Park

One of the largest wooden buildings stands here in the "Tamozawa Imperial Villa Memorial Park". Unfortunately it was already closed when we arrived. It's located between "Nikkō Tōshō-gū Temple" and the Abyss.

Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/fCEhqVSFT5BzwoBZ7

Kanmangafuchi Abyss

If you want to end the day with a walk after exploring the impressive temple, I recommend the Jizo statues at Kanmangafuchi Abyss. The statues are easily recognizable by their distinctive red hats and bibs. It’s said that you can never count them; you’ll get a different number every time.

Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/nyXQ5mcbT7f8vE4R8

Chuzenji Lake

Chuzenji Lake is very well known in the Nikko region, but take care: in winter it's extremely cold and windy there because it's on a mountain (about 1,200 meters above sea level). It also snows more often, or the snow stays longer, and it's much colder than at the station (about 500 meters above sea level).

After marveling at the lake and envying the hotel guests at The Ritz-Carlton (about €1,000 per night), we went to a café with a view of the lake. That was necessary, since the wind really got to us despite wearing four layers, gloves, and a scarf. At this time of year you can't go boating, so I am looking forward to see what it’s like in summer.

On our 2023 trip we came here again, and to our surprise this time we even saw wild monkeys! They do live in Japan, but are actually quite rare to see in the wild. It was truly a unique experience I won’t forget.

Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/evWiAVvwqkDd1mLDA

The Kengon Waterfalls

Nikko and its surroundings are known for three waterfalls. We managed to see two of them. It’s especially spectacular in winter, as the water by and underneath the waterfall freezes. At 97 meters in height, it’s also the tallest and most impressive.

Along with the Nachi and Fukuroda falls in other prefectures, the Kengon Falls are considered among the most beautiful in Japan.

If you want a good perspective of the waterfall, there's an elevator—you can't use stairs. Unfortunately, the elevator costs about 600 yen. But your fee also pays for staff and the viewing platform.

Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/vDZMF7xcDBKd7aY28

If you like fish, be sure to try fish on a stick along the way. Most of the time it’s trout, which you can eat with bones and innards. They are salty and very hearty. Especially in cold weather, a small meal in between helps warm your stomach. Since they are grilled over charcoal, they get really crispy too. Just writing this is making me crave some again, hahaha.

The Ryūzu Waterfalls

A bit further away are the much smaller Ryūzu Falls. You can get especially close to these. If you get hungry, there is also a restaurant there—with the local specialty Yuba, of course.

Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/pnsSFsc8kP4AX5t87

Edo Wonderland Nikko Edomura

Edo Wonderland is an open-air museum where you can immerse yourself in the world of the Edo period. Here you'll find period buildings with interiors and other interesting artifacts from that era. The entrance fee of 5,800 yen (about 37 euros) per person is quite pricey, but you could easily spend 2-3 hours here—with children, even longer!

My tip: If you buy your ticket at Nikko Tobu station, it only costs 5,500 yen, saving you some money. There's also a free shuttle bus that takes you from Nikko JR station to Edo Wonderland (note: that's NOT the Tobu Nikko station where the Limited Express train arrives!).

Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/Y2wb12kipxUrKcb36

Official website (English): https://edowonderland.net/en/

Hungry after exploring the open-air museum, we decided to eat at the on-site restaurant. There was Edo Miso Dipping Soba—for 1,000 yen per dish, a bit pricey in my opinion for just a bit of soba with wasabi and green onions.

Yumoto Onsen springs

Another attraction we visited is the Yumoto Onsen springs. The natural hot springs bubble here in a beautiful landscape between forests and mountains. The lying snow made it even more special. However, the smell of sulfur (smells like rotten eggs) is very strong! Entry is free here.

Since the Yumoto Onsen spring is very rural, you may be lucky enough to spot wild animals such as monkeys or deer. During our visit, we spotted a deer in the bushes!

Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/t8F1qUZCv8NkYff89

The footbath あんよの湯 (anyo no yu)

Near the Yumoto Onsen spring, there is also a footbath (あんよの湯 anyo no yu) that you can visit. Entry to the footbath is usually free, but it was already closed when we arrived at 4:00 pm, so unfortunately we didn’t get to try it.

Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/Yv9ELj45z2Ey4qvm8

Hotels in Nikko

Nikko Park Lodge Tobu Station (Trip 2022)

For our 2022 trip we chose a budget hotel, because we wanted to spend the saved money mostly on food. The hotel is called "Nikko Park Lodge Tobu Station" .* If you want to spend 200 - 300€ for a hotel, you'll have a much better and bigger selection. Of course, this also depends on the season.

• Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/SK2xoYkAhspGuHgb6
• Booking.com:  "Nikko Park Lodge Tobu Station"

Positive features:

• 2 minutes from the main station
• Staff (when we arrived, they spoke very good English)
• Very cheap (~8,000¥ / 60€)
• Bookable via Booking.com or Airbnb (Booking.com was cheaper at our time of booking)
• No mold found
• Microwave & fridge in shared bathroom facilities (Supermarket is 2 minutes away – Family Mart convenience store is 5 minutes away)

Negative features:

• Walls are very thin (a child screamed for at least half an hour at 7:30 am)
• Sometimes the smell wasn’t pleasant, but the room was fine
• Shared toilets and bathrooms (two rooms shared these with us)
• Carpet in the room is very stained, furniture is also sometimes dirty
• Bed sheet had a small hole (2 cm), but was otherwise clean for a two-star hotel
• No extras (just a two-star hotel)

Shinkyo Inn Hotel (Trip 2023)

For our 2023 trip, we chose the Shinkyo Inn Hotel ". This hotel has an ideal location, just one minute from the famous Shinkyo Bridge. There are many restaurants in the area and the main attractions like shrines and temples are only a 2-3 minute walk away.

A special highlight of the hotel is that you get an idyllic view of the nearby river from both the bathroom and the rest of the room. The owner is a foreigner (I think he was British) and so he speaks perfect English. That means there are no language barriers, which makes it highly recommended for international guests.

We were allowed to leave our luggage in the hotel until 2:00 pm. The owners were away that day, so we couldn’t leave our suitcases longer. The hotel is more like a guesthouse with only two rooms, but both are very spacious.

• Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/4X39RfLKhJZswZoY6
• Booking.com:   https://www.booking.com/hotel/jp/shinkyo-inn.de.html

Positive features:

• Perfect location, just a few minutes' walk from the top attractions
• The owner spoke perfect English (he himself was British)
• Many restaurants near the property
• Only two rooms, so both are very spacious
• View of the river, very idyllic 

Negative features:

• On our departure day, we could only leave our luggage until 2:00 pm

Travel costs

Budget option 2022: 2 days one person (hotel could be shared by two)

1. Train round-trip (~¥7,000 / ~55€)
2. Hotel one night (~¥8,000 / ~60€)
3. Free Bus Ticket 2 days (~¥2,200 / ~17€)
4. Food & snacks / street food (~¥5,000 / ~40€)
5. Entrance fees (~¥2,000 / ~15€)
6. Total = (~¥25,000 / ~190 - 200€)

Slightly more expensive option 2023 (not luxury): 2 days one person (hotel and car could be shared by two)

1. Train (~¥7,000 / ~55€)
2. Hotel for two nights (~¥63,000 / ~400€)
3. Car for two days (~¥20,000 with gas / ~150€)
4. Food & snacks / street food (~¥10,000 / ~75€)
5. Entrance fees (~¥12,000 / ~80€)
6. Total = (~¥112,000 / ~720€)

Food in Nikko – Yuba dishes as a local specialty

Yuba & Soba

Yuba ゆば is a local delicacy in Nikko and the surrounding area. Here in Tokyo I’ve never seen or eaten it. But as almost every restaurant serves it in soups, as a spaghetti topping or deep-fried, of course I tried it.

What is Yuba ゆば? 

Yuba is produced from soy milk. The milk is heated to 80-90°C. The film that forms on top is then carefully lifted off with chopsticks.

What does Yuba ゆば taste like?

It’s hard to describe. At first I thought it would have a similar texture to Tamagoyaki since it kind of looks that way, but it is much firmer and spongier. It also soaks up a lot of liquid. Since it’s almost tasteless, it’s often served in (noodle) soups or deep-fried. You can also eat it as sashimi.

Conclusion:

I especially recommend Nikko in winter. In Tokyo there was no snow in 2021–2022. But if you go to Nikko you’ll see a lot of snow. Just be sure to dress very warmly, as it can get really cold in winter (-3°C is not unusual, and with strong winds it’s even more uncomfortable).

Hotels are relatively expensive since it’s a very popular tourist destination. The food is tasty and you can enjoy lots of nature. If you want to escape the city and you’re in Tokyo, I highly recommend spending 1 or 2 days in Nikko. Traveling there is also not too expensive overall. One thing I noticed: When I went back in December 2023, almost everything closed early, even restaurants sometimes only stayed open until 2:30–3:00 pm.