Hachijō-jima: Discover "Japan's Hawaii" A travelogue with insider tips

Hachijō-jima, a volcanic island, is located about 300 kilometers south of Tokyo in the Pacific Ocean and administratively belongs to the Japanese capital. The island is part of the Izu Islands and the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park. What sets Hachijō-jima apart from other islands in the Izu chain is its subtropical climate and the resulting lush, almost jungle-like vegetation. The island offers a unique mix of pristine nature, volcanic landscapes, relaxing onsen, and cultural attractions.

Hachijō-jima has a fascinating history. Archaeological findings show that the island was already inhabited during the Jōmon period (approximately 14,000 - 300 BC). During the Edo period (1603-1868), the island served as a place of exile for criminals and political dissidents. One of the most famous exiles was Ukita Hideie, a daimyō who was defeated at the Battle of Sekigahara. His descendants were not pardoned until after the Meiji Restoration in 1869. The island’s history as a place of exile has shaped the local culture and identity, giving Hachijō-jima a distinctive atmosphere.

Personally, I was particularly fascinated by the island in autumn, when Tokyo was already experiencing cooler temperatures. The lush forests and rugged coastal landscape exuded a unique charm. What sets Hachijō-jima apart from other islands of the Izu chain is its low level of tourist development. Abandoned buildings, such as the former Hachijo Royal Hotel, bear witness to a past tourism boom and give the island a touch of nostalgia and adventure. It is precisely this contrast between pristine nature and traces of past times that makes Hachijō-jima so appealing to me.

Getting to and Getting Around on Hachijō-jima

By Plane to Hachijō-jima

Traveling by plane is the fastest and most convenient option. The flight from Tokyo (Haneda Airport) takes only 45 minutes and offers breathtaking views of the snow-capped Mount Fuji and the surrounding islands. During my flight, I was able to witness a spectacular sunset over a cloud layer and admire the majestic Fuji with its snow-capped peak. Modern smartphones enable travelers to capture these unique moments – such as the sunset or the view of Fuji – in excellent quality through the airplane windows. The airfares are about 35,000 Yen per person for a round trip, which is quite reasonable for this special island experience.

By Ferry to Hachijō-jima

Alternatively to traveling by plane, Hachijō-jima can also be reached by ferry. Ferries operate from Tokyo (Takeshiba Pier) and other ports in the Izu Islands. The crossing takes about 10 hours and offers a relaxed way to reach the island. Information on ferry connections, timetables, and prices can be found on the Tokai Kisen website.

Rental Car - Flexibility and Freedom on Hachijō-jima

Immediately after landing at the airport, we rented a compact K-Car from ENEOS Rent a Car. The price of 5,000 Yen per day, including insurance, is fair by Japanese standards. Although our Mietwagen was not the newest anymore (with almost 99.999 kilometers on the odometer), it served its purpose. For our four-day stay, the total cost, including refueling, came to 22,000 Yen. A tip: Since the car rental company also operates a gas station, we were able to return the car with a full tank, so we didn't have to worry about the hassle of refueling before departure.

A rental car is almost indispensable on Hachijō-jima for exploring the island flexibly. Another plus: After a call at the airport, the rental company picked us up directly, saving us the taxi ride.

Alternative Transportation Options

• Public Buses: The buses on Hachijō-jima do not run very frequently and the routes are limited. There are two bus lines: the "Community Bus Route" operates in the town center (Okago and Mitsune) and the "Public Bus Route" connects all five areas of the island (Mitsune, Okago, Kashitate, Nakanogo, Sueyoshi). Timetables and route information are available on the Hachijo Town Bus website

• E-Bikes: In the town and along some coastal stretches, e-bikes can be rented. These are particularly suitable for shorter distances and exploring the flatter coastal areas. They are less recommended for the island's hilly sections.

• Taxi: Taxis are available on the island, but they are more expensive compared to rental cars or buses.

Accommodation on Hachijō-jima

Tiny Camp House 月海

During our stay, we stayed at Tiny Camp House 月海. The accommodation is located in a secluded area amidst the mountainous landscape in the Sueyoshi district, about a 30-minute drive from the town center and 15 minutes from the airport. The winding roads made the journey a little adventure every day. In the immediate vicinity is the well-known onsen Miharashi-no-Yu, which was unfortunately closed for renovations during our visit. The peaceful location of Tiny Camp House provided us with a perfect retreat after our day trips. One small downside: Due to its secluded location in the midst of nature, there were some insects present even at the hotel. View on Google Maps

Book hotel here

Other Accommodations on Hachijō-jima

In addition to our Tiny Camp House, Hachijō-jima offers a variety of accommodations to suit different needs and budgets. Travelers can choose from hotels, traditional Japanese ryokans, guesthouses, and campsites. Some popular options include:

• Hachijo View Hotel: A hotel with traditional Japanese ambiance and sea views.
• Hachijojima Park Hotel: A hotel near the airport with comfortable rooms and a restaurant.
• Seadive Dormitory: A hostel with affordable prices and a relaxed atmosphere.

Activities and Attractions on Hachijō-jima

Hachijō-jima offers a variety of activities and attractions for nature lovers, adventurers, and culture enthusiasts. Here are some highlights we experienced during our stay:

Fishing along the Coast of Hachijō-jima

The coastline of Hachijō-jima is a paradise for anglers. Along the rocky sections, we encountered both locals and tourists trying their luck. The variety of fish species exceeded our expectations. We were able to catch some types that we had never seen before.

Botanical Garden & Aquarium

The botanical garden on Hachijō-jima is an absolute must-see for every visitor. Admission is free, and the facility offers an impressive collection of tropical and subtropical plants. A highlight was the tame miniature deer that roamed freely on the grounds and could be observed up close. These deer are a rare species of dwarf muntjacs. In the adjacent aquarium, we were able to admire the fascinating underwater world of the island. The pufferfish, in particular, were delightful as they frolicked in their tanks.

Hachijō-Fuji (Mt. Nishi) - Volcano Ascent with Panoramic View

Hachijō-Fuji, also known as Mt. Nishi, is an 854-meter-high volcano that dominates the northwestern landscape of the island. The ascent over 1,280 steps is exhausting, but the view from the summit compensates for all the effort. The untouched caldera with its ponds and the Asama Shrine exudes a mystical atmosphere. Hachijō-Fuji is an active volcano with a 10,000-year history. The last eruption occurred in 1605. Seismic activities, such as the swarm quakes in 2002, remind us of the mountain's volcanic nature.

Tamaishi - A Journey Back to the Edo Period

The Tamaishi, circular stone walls from the Edo period (1603-1868), are a fascinating testimony to the island's history. Around 2,000 exiles built these imposing structures out of sea-worn stones. The restored walls at private houses showcase the traditional craftsmanship of that time. Each stone was carefully selected and manually placed.

Hachijo Royal Hotel - A Lost Place with History

The abandoned Hachijo Royal Hotel is a symbol of the island's past tourism boom. The hotel opened in 1963 and was then one of the largest hotels in Japan. With its French-Baroque style, it attracted guests from all over the country. However, the tourism boom came to an end and the hotel had to close in 2006. Today, the dilapidated facility is a popular photo spot for "Lost Place" enthusiasts and a reminder of impermanence.

Nanbara Senjojiki - A Hike through a Lava Field

Nanbara Senjojiki is a lava field approximately 500 meters long located on the south coast of Hachijō-jima. It was formed around 3,700 years ago by an eruption of the Higashi-yama volcano. The bizarre landscape of black lava rock and the deep blue sea is a breathtaking natural spectacle. From the Osaka Tunnel Observation Deck, you have a fantastic panoramic view over the lava field and the neighboring island of Hachijō-Kojima.

Hiking, Diving and Surfing

In addition to the activities mentioned above, Hachijō-jima offers a wide range of options for outdoor enthusiasts. The island has numerous hiking trails that wind through volcanic landscapes, lush forests, and along the coastline. Divers and snorkelers can explore the rich underwater world of the island. The warm waters surrounding Hachijō-jima are home to tropical fish, corals, and sea turtles. Surfers will find good conditions for their sport along the island's coasts.

Local Specialties (Meibutsu) - Culinary

Discoveries on Hachijō-jima

Hachijō-jima offers a range of culinary specialties that will delight your taste buds. Here are some highlights:

Dish	Main ingredients	Preparation method	Where to get it?
Sochu	Sweet potatoes, rice	Distilled	Local distilleries, restaurants
Iwanori	Type of seaweed	Harvested, dried	Sushi restaurants, specialty stores
Shimazushi	Mekajiki (swordfish), Akahata (red grouper), Ishinori (rock nori), Ashitaba leaves	Marinated in soy sauce, served on rice	Restaurants
Kusaya	Small fish (e.g., flying fish)	Salted, dried, fermented	Specialty stores, restaurants
Budo	Seaweed, mussels, fish, agar-agar	Jellied	Restaurants
Sasayo (Isuzumi)	Brass ruff	Grilled, sashimi	Restaurants

Shochu - The Island Liquor

Shochu is a traditional Japanese spirit made from various ingredients such as sweet potatoes, rice, or barley. On Hachijō-jima, shochu is primarily made from sweet potatoes. The island's unique water quality and traditional distillation methods give Hachijō shochu its distinctive flavor. Each distillery on the island has its own time-honored recipe. Shochu can be enjoyed neat, on ice, or diluted with water.

Iwanori - The Seaweed with an Intense Flavor

Iwanori is a special type of seaweed harvested directly off the coast of Hachijō-jima. Its intense, slightly salty flavor and crisp texture make it a popular ingredient for sushi and other dishes. The seaweed is traditionally gathered by hand and then dried.

Shimazushi - Traditional Sushi with an Island Twist

Shimazushi is a traditional type of sushi prepared with three characteristic fish species:

• Mekajiki (swordfish): Considered a local delicacy and has a mild, slightly sweet flavor.
• Akahata (red grouper): Notable for its firm, white flesh and delicate flavor.
• Ishinori (rock nori): Adds a special touch to the sushi and a slightly salty taste.

Additionally, Shimazushi is prepared with Ashitaba leaves (known for their health benefits) and a special soy sauce marinade. The pieces of fish are marinated and then served on rice balls. Shimazushi distinguishes itself from other types of sushi through its more intense flavor and the use of local ingredients.

Kusaya - The Fish Specialty with an Intense Aroma

Kusaya is a traditional fish specialty preserved by salting, drying, and fermenting. Small fish, such as flying fish, are used for kusaya. The fish are first cleaned and then soaked in a special brine ("Kusaya-jiru"). This brine, passed down through generations, gives kusaya its characteristic, intense aroma and flavor. After soaking, the fish are dried in the sun. Kusaya is often grilled or fried and has a very strong, acquired taste that is reminiscent of cheese.

Budo - A Seaweed Dish with a Jellied Consistency

Budo is a local dish that combines various seafood with seaweed. The mixture of algae, mussels, and fish is enhanced with agar-agar, giving the dish a unique, jellied consistency. Budo has a refreshing taste and is often served as an appetizer or side dish.

Sasayo - The Popular Edible Fish

Sasayo, also known as Isuzumi (brass ruff), is a popular edible fish on Hachijō-jima. It is usually grilled or prepared as sashimi and is valued by fishermen for its rich flavor. Sasayo has firm, white flesh and a mild taste.

Sustainability on Hachijō-jima

Hachijō-jima is committed to sustainable tourism and the protection of the natural environment. The island residents are aware of the importance of their unique flora and fauna and are involved in various projects to protect the environment and promote responsible tourism. Initiatives include:

• Protection of sea turtles: The waters around Hachijō-jima are an important breeding ground for sea turtles. There are programs dedicated to protecting the nests and educating the public about turtle conservation.
• Promotion of eco-tourism: Ecologically responsible tours and activities are offered that introduce visitors to the island's nature and culture without burdening the environment.
• Waste reduction and recycling: The island is dedicated to minimizing waste and promoting recycling.

Conclusion - Hachijō-jima: An Unforgettable Island Experience

Hachijō-jima is a fascinating travel destination that captivates with its unique blend of pristine nature, volcanic landscapes, cultural attractions, and culinary specialties. The island offers a break from everyday life and allows you to immerse yourself in Japanese culture. Whether it's fishing, hiking, relaxing in an onsen, or exploring abandoned places - Hachijō-jima has something to offer everyone.

What impressed me most about Hachijō-jima was the combination of pristine nature and traces of the past. The island is not as crowded as other tourist destinations in Japan and exudes a special calm and authenticity. The encounters with the friendly island residents, the exploration of the volcanic landscape, and the culinary discoveries made this journey an unforgettable experience.

Aspect	Description
Location	300 km south of Tokyo, Pacific Ocean
Size	63 km²
Population	7,522 (as of March 2018)
Climate	Subtropical, mild
Arrival	Plane (Haneda Airport), ferry
Transportation	Rental car, e-bikes, buses, taxi
Accommodation	Hotels, guesthouses, vacation rentals
Activities	Hiking, fishing, diving, snorkeling, onsen, lost places
Attractions	Hachijō-Fuji, botanical garden, Tamaishi, Hachijo Royal Hotel, Nanbara Senjojiki
Specialties	Shochu, Iwanori, Shimazushi, Kusaya, Budo, Sasayo

 

Additional Information and Tips for Travelers

• Travel Season: The best time to visit Hachijō-jima is in spring or autumn, when the weather is mild and pleasant.
• Language: Japanese is spoken on Hachijō-jima. English skills are limited, but available in most tourist facilities. Some islanders also speak Hachijō, an endangered language related to the Ryukyuan languages.
• Currency: The currency in Japan is the Japanese Yen (JPY).
• Internet: Wi-Fi is available in most hotels and some cafes.
• Electricity: The mains voltage in Japan is 100 volts. Adapters are needed for European devices.
• Health: There is a hospital on the island. Travel health insurance is recommended.
• Safety: Hachijō-jima is a safe island with a low crime rate.